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At the limits of Patagonia: the incredible El Chatlén

Considering the arrival of Spain at the estuary of the La Plata River in 1516, and the foundation of what today is called Argentina only 16 years after the arrival of the Portuguese in Brazil, it’s hard to think that a town can be almost the same age as the person who wrote this text and the person who is reading it. It is El Chatlén, the “youngest” city in Argentina, with a history that began in 1985, and was founded exclusively to maintain Argentina’s sovereignty over the territories disputed with Chile on the Patagonian frontier. Another curious fact is that the town has fewer inhabitants than the district where you live: in the winter, there are fewer than 500 people in the cold town.

Exactly because of its freezing climate, the busiest tourist season is in the summer, when lovers of trekking – since El Chatlén is considered the Argentinean capital of the sport – and mountaineers in general invade the town, which is full of incredible lakes, glaciers and, of course, mountains worthy of one of the scenes in the film “Lord of the Rings”, with walls of ice and rock explored by lovers of mountaineering since the 1940s. Cerro Torre (Torre Mountain) is outstanding, considered by specialists as one of the most difficult mountains in the world. Also outstanding are the El Chatlén Mountains and Cerro Fitzroy (Fitzroy Mountain).

It is worth noting that El Chatlén is divided between specialist mountaineers, that is, those capable of facing great challenges, and amateur sportsmen. The former go to the aforementioned mountains. For the tourists that are amateurs in the sport, the tip is to practice the trekking near where they are based. This enjoyable pastime will be rewarded by contact with nature and information about local geology, flora and fauna offered by a good guide. Besides learning about the formation of glaciers, the tourists will see foxes, wild ducks, woodpeckers, and small mammals, such as pumas.

The arrival at El Chatlén is quite tranquil: on regular Aerolineas Argentinas flights leaving from the Buenos Aires Aeropark and landing in the modern airport of El Calafate, 200km away from the town. From there, one takes a Route 40 or Route 23 bus. Arriving in town, the order is: walk. That’s right: no transportation. The whole town can be seen on foot. The profile of most of the tourists is as simple as walking around town: backpackers seeking adventure, with no thoughts of luxury or of the famous gastronomical experiences in the capital of the country, Buenos Aires.

Speaking of food, among the options, the main square is outstanding, as well as the San Martin Avenue, with a wide choice of restaurants that serve the traditional Argentinean “parillas” (barbecues) and “empanadas” (pasties), besides soups, pizzas and “galetos” (roast cockerels), all at fair prices. However, if you wish to spend more on food, don’t miss tasting the lamb grilled over a fire in the ground and served with the tasty Argentinean wines. The ground rules for meals are: calories, to be ingested and expended, and practicality. These concepts are easily applied by the establishments and the kitchens of local hotels.

And, speaking of hotels, learn where to stay. Forget the luxury inns and hotels of El Calafate. In El Chatlén you’ll find basic accommodation that is simple but comfortable. The rooms are heated, of course, and packages include a good breakfast, common areas with fireplaces, and even Jacuzzi tubs, ideal for a cold day in the mountains. If you want to economize or optimize your time to explore the mountains, the option is to stay in the campings in town, or in hostels with the characteristics that are typical all over the world: beer, bunks and human warmth.

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